Ice climbing in Australia? Could it be true?
Apparently, yes! Come to the Snowy Mountains to learn how to ice climb at Blue Lake in Kosciuszko National Park on the weekend of August 12-14th.
Plan: Drive to the Snowies Friday evening, camping near Guthega. Alpine start Saturday, walk to Blue Lake, climb some ice, camp in the snow. Sunday climb more ice, walk out and back late to Sydney.
Gear: I will organise a time a few days before the trip to rent gear from the UNSW tramshed storage (22-30 King St, Randwick NSW 2031). See the full packing list below, but essential items are: stiff boots (ski boots or mountaineering boots), 2 ice axes each (curved shafts if possible), set of crampons that fit the boots (check before hand!)
Camping: bring all your camping gear including tent, stove, warm sleeping bag, food. We’ll organise into groups to reduce weight.
Experience: you should be at least competent at outdoor sport climbing leading grade 16+ to come on the trip. Previous experience in the snow is preferred i.e. skiing/snowboarding, but no real mountaineering experience is needed.
Cost: about $50 for petrol, maybe some other hidden costs at the Snowies. Free accommodation (camping). Should not cost too much!
Any questions hit me up on FB – https://www.facebook.com/alastair.mcdowell.9
Ciao!
Alastair
0450600842
Expedition Packing List (for three people) – this is a complete list for an expedition, select only the relevant items to bring!
Climbing Food:
- Boil in a bag meals, 6 -10 double size meals per person
- Gu Shots x 40 per person
- Gu Chomps 20 packets per person
- Energy Bars x 30 per person make sure they are ones that don’t freeze to easily
- Gu Brew Tabs x 50 per person
Equipment:
Climbing
- 2 x half ropes 60m. We use Tendon Master Half Ropes
- 1 x cragging rope for Hatun Machay
- Crampons
- 2 x ice axe and/or mixed climbing tools per person with hammer/adze
- 1 x small file for sharpening crampons/picks
- 1 x spare pick for ice tools.
- 1 x allen key or spanner for tightening axes
- 1 x travel bag for crampons
- 12 light weight 60cm extendable quick draws
- 2 x 120cm light weight spectra sewn sling
- Pitons (approx 6, 3 each of knife blades and angles)
- 2 x auto locking screw gate style biners for ATC and for fixing anchors per person
- 2 x light weight screw gates per person
- 2 x snow stakes
- 1 x ATC guide style belay device per person
- 1 x daisy chain or safety sling per person
- 2 x alpine light weight etrier
- A mix of hooks and beaks for aid [optional]
- hand drill and small selection of bolts [optional]
- 1 x helmet per person light under 400g
- 1 x climbing harness per person (needs to weigh less than 350g)
- 2 x sets of wires number 1 – 8 + 1 set RPs & offsets
- Double set of cams 0-4 camalots (this allows us to have gear stashed in two seperate climbing locations)
- 1 x light weight biner per cam
- 12 x ice screws for team, 2 long, 8 med 2 short, Petzl light weight screws
- Ice screw sharpener
- 1 x v-threader per person
- Spinner leash for attaching ice axes to harness
- Ice clippers for harness
- 2x screamers
- 1 x chalk bag per person
- 1 x spare pot of chalk
- 1 x crack climbing gloves
- 1 x fifi hook
- 1 x grigri
- 3 x tibloc
- 3 x micro traction
- 1 x binoculars
Route bivvy gear:
- 1 x shovel (light weight) [optional]
- 1 x double bivvy quilt (Macpac prototype), if taking bivy bags x single bivy bag Macpac Alpine Cocoon
- 1 x light single skin tent
- 1 x bothy Bag 3 person Rab Sil Bothy
- 1 x sleeping mat each (3/4 Z rest with clip in point)
- 2 x 120L Macpac Duffle bags each for travel
- 1 x 35 – 45 L climbing pack (under 600g) NZAT Macpac Pursuit 40
- 1 x 1L water bottle per person
- 2 x 1L bladders per person
- 1 x 1.5L piss bottle
- 1 x 10L water bladder
- 1 x pen + notebook per person
- 1 Jetboil 800ml variety
- 1 spoon per person
- Drybags for gear at least five large ones per person. (and stashing kit at high bivvy sites)
- Sat Phone is handy for getting up to date forecasts while away in the mountains and emergencies.
Base camp gear:
- 1 x leatherman multi tool per two people
- 1 x light climbing knife i.e. petzl knife that can attach to harness one per person
- 1 x long flexible drinking straw per person for use on route and glaciers each person, 30cm or longer.
- Lighters, gas, soap, other cooking supplies can be brought in town.
- Sleeping bag for base camp Macpac Epic 400
- Individual tent for base camp we took Macpac Olympus Tents a good sized 2 man base camp tent.
- 1 x silk sleeping bag liner per person
- 1 x small dry bag for top of pack per person
- Stuff sack for organising clothing or a Macpac cram sack
Footwear:
- 1 x alpine boot mid weight like Salewa Pro Series or for longer , higher routes where a bivy is planned a double boot is ideal.
- 1 x pair jandles per person
- 1 x town shoe
- 1 x pair approach shoes per person Salewa Mountain Trainer
- 1 x spare laces for climbing boots per person
- 1 x tight fitting rock shoe per person for sport climbing in town.
- 1 x climbing shoe that can fit a mid weight sock snugly per person.
- 1 x spare laces for climbing shoe per person
- Lube for boot zippers
- Wax or waterproof boots before departure
- Walking poles
Clothing: (all items for each person)
- 1 x Pro Thermal Leggings Macpac
- 1 x Pro Thermal Hoody Macpac
- 1 x Fitz Roy Soft Shell Pants
- 1 x Fitz Roy Soft Shell Jacket
- 6 x sports style underwear Macpac Merino
- 2 x mid weight sock Macpac Tech Ski Socks
- 2 x thin sock (running, approach walks) Macpac Fast Hiker Sock
- 1 x thick sock (Bivvy’s) Macpac Expedition Sock
- 1 x travel sock
- 1 x Macpac Sonic Windshirt
- 1 x Macpac Pitch Fleece
- 1 x Macpac Supanova light weight down jacket
- 2 x Macpac Dash gloves
- 2 x Macpac Stretch fleece gloves
- 1 x Macpac Equinox down Jacket
- 1 x waterproof shell to go over the wind stopper gloves if it starts to rain.
- 2 x warm water proof gloves Macpac Powder glove
- 1 x warm mitt is useful if going early season and doing ice routes.
- 1 x pair of light walking pants Macpac Trekker pants
- 1 x casual travel pants
- 2 x tee shirts casual
- 1 x small travel towel
- 1 x sun hat with neck protection
- 2 x sun glasses with neck strap and cleaning case, nose cover could be useful
- 1 x snow googles
- 1 x thin thermal balaclava
- 1 x face mask
- 2 x short sleeve thermal shirt / sports top Macpac Warp range
- 2 x long sleeve thermal shirt / sports top Macpac Warp range
- 1 x silk or non cotton long sleeve shirt for climbing on hot day/approach walks, not for use on actual route
- 1 x synthetic Macpac Pulsar jacket
- 1 x light weight rain coat, Macpac Hightail Anorak
- 1 x light weight rain pants Macpac Hightail Pants
- Shoe Gu for shoe repair
- Aqua seal for clothing repair
- Bees wax for keeping gloves and boots waterproof
- Sewing kit
- Shorts
- In town warm jacket/fleece. Macpac Mountain Hoody Fleece
General Equipment: (for each individual person)
- 1 x medium size tube of sun block
- 1 x Lifestraw filter bottle for drinking water on approaches and base camp
- 1 x re usable mini sun block case
- 1 x lip balm with sting so it can hang around your neck
- Baby wipes as many as you feel you need (purchase on arrival)
- 1 x personal first aid kit, you can buy basic pain medication in town, however bring any specific strong pain medication you think might be necessary plus general antibiotic.
- 1 x small bottle of detol / hand sanitiser
- 2 x rolls of dental floss
- 1 x tooth paste
- 1 x small tooth brush
- 1 x tube of mouth ulcer gel
- 1 x tube of canastine style unti fungle cream
- 1 x small travel alarm clock
- 1 x alpine climbing watch with altitude and barometer (need 1 between 2 minimum)
- 1 x compass
- 1 x area topo map
- 2 x head lamps and 2 sets of spare batteries
- 1 x digital camera + spare memory card if required
- Charger for digital camera
- Spare camera batteries and memory cards
- Spare batteries watch
- Spare batteries travel alarm
- Personal toiletries
- Vitamin supplements
- Power adaptors specific for Peru
- Eye patch & ear plugs for bivvys
- Solar panel with double USB adaptors
- Tablet or e reader
To congratulate you for making the end, contemplating a very sore back and empty wallet, here’s a poem.
Attendees
- Matt Minus
- Ewa Siedlecka
- Victor Boussange