Edge Wear of Ropes

A rope getting cut or worn on an edge while abseiling is very real and happens too easily. Not only is it expensive (getting new ropes all the time) it is incredibly dangerous. Having bought rope protectors for the club, and having seen a few sheathed and core shot ropes, I think some tips are due:

  • ALWAYS USE ROPE PROTECTORS if there's an edge. Even if it's rounded or doesn't look too bad, I've seen them wear a sheath away. Left in place the core would be next.
  • The more abseilers the more likely edge wear will happen
  • Try get people to abseil straight down instead of around overhangs and whatnot. The side to side movement is killer
  • Remember to keep checking the rope between abseilers

If caught without a rope protector you can:

  • Use a bag or something soft (still clip bag to anchor)
  • Isolate the strands and send everyone double strand anyway
  • Keep moving the rope through the anchor between abseils to change the spot being worn (which may involve untying your stone knot or alpine butterfly and retying)

If the rope has been sheathed or core shot

  • Use a different rope
  • last option, if you don’t have another rope, you can tie an overhand at the point where the damage is to isolate it from the system and put people on abseil below it. Pull down rope by the knot side. NB: Also move the rope through the anchor to bring the knot closer to it and out of the way. Be aware of how long your rope is to be confident both sides still touch the ground. Otherwise have some cord to tie to the end that doesn't.

Cheers, Brendan