UNSW Bushwalking & Mountaineering Club

Newsletter - June/July 2001

News

err... nothing much yet :-) It seems to be a slow news month :-)

Burramoko Buttress

(there follows a short trip report on Burramoko Buttress, a 150m 19 near Hanging Rock, Blackheath)

Thursday afternoon found myself, my sister Adele and cousin Tam, and long time climbing partner Giovanni aboard the 4:30 Mazda 121 heading to the Mountains. After much talk, Gio and I had finally faced up to the fact that we hadn't yet climbed Burramoko Buttress - hence the boot full of climbing gear (including nice new double ropes). Adele and Tam were planning on walking in the Grose Valley below the buttress. Having left at 4:30 made for a slow drive to the mountains, and, after a slight overshoot, we found Ridgewell Road, leading out to Hanging Rock. The little Mazda wasn't really up to the rigours of Ridgewell Road, but, it being dark, we didn't realise this at the time! In many places all the passengers were jogging along outside, to lighten the load, with poor Tam dodging potholes, etc.

Eventually we made it to the end of the road, and set up our campsite in the carpark, with a blazing fire. After dinner (pasta with the lot), we headed out to the lookout over the Grose Valley. I don't think we'd understood the size of the cliff we were proposing to climb until we arrived at the edge, with a panoramic view of the Grose spread out underneath us. We had a quick look out over Burramoko Buttress and Hanging Rock by torchlight, and then turned in.

Friday morning started fairly early - we were all planning on abseiling down Burramoko Buttress, Gio and I to climb back up, and Tam and Adele to walk off the bottom, down to the Blue Gum Forest. The abseil down was fairly straightforward, but took a long time. In total 5 abseils got us to the bottom, and it was already 1 o'clock by the time Gio and I were ready to start climbing. Fortunately we had beautiful weather, and all the belay ledges were in the sun, and blisteringly hot.

Gio started proceedings, with a good lead up pitch 1, a short crack, followed by a thin and unprotected traverse, leading to a very steep and strenuous wall to a good belay ledge. I followed, and found myself completely pumped by the time I pulled up into the tree at the belay. A short pause, and I headed up pitch 2. A short slab was dealt with easily, and after that a bulge and a sequence of long reachy moves on minimal holds led to a wide shale band, and an excellent belay. Pitches 3 and 5, at 30m and 55m, were more straightforward, but still offered excellent climbing up the arete of Burramoko Buttress, with good protection, and stunning views across to Hanging Rock, and down, a few hundred metres, to the base of the cliff!

The vital statistics - Burramoko Buttress, grade 19, 150m, pitches - (19), (19), (16), (17). Check out the Grose Valley climbing guide, and look around the 'net. Contrary to some rumours, it's very well protected - take some friends and wires.)

Although the climb had been successful, our adventures weren't over yet. The mazda just couldn't cope with the road out - a steep and `rough as guts' section, and after a few attempts, we realised that it wan't going to work... A long walk to Blackheath, and we called the NRMA! A while later, after visits from the NRMA and a big tow truck, the car was winched up the hill, and, very thankfully, we drove the rest of the way out without incident. Papadino's (*the* pizza restaurant in Katoomba) saved the day. We ordered a takeaway pizza, moments before they closed the doors, and arrived back 10 minutes later to find they'd made two :-) Papadino's and the NRMA - you are my heroes!

Saturday we went for a walk out to Lockley's Pylon, had a look at the incredible climbs there and at the Fortress, and met Adele and Tam, coming up from the Blue Gum Forest, and drove home...

Climbing in the Grose is incredible - a whole new experience, and very different to other Blue Mountains climbing. The club has the guidebook, so get your hands on it and think about some adventures out there! Margarine Ridge, near Mt Hay, is a great introduction. If you're up to it, Burramoko Buttress is awesome - fantastic climbing, unbelievable location, and a real sense of adventure.

Scott

Trips List

Full trips list for 2001 is also available on the webpage.