UNSW
Bushwalking & Mountaineering ClubUNSW
Bushwalking & Mountaineering ClubThis is the October newsletter - the first after we've all come back from the Olympics, sharing the spirit or escaping Sydney as the case may be. There are lots of things coming up soon, including the Boree Log (see below), one of the main events on this sessions calendar. There's also climbing and canyoning as the weather gets better, and lots of plans for bushwalking. Look out for the night bushwalking in Bungonia Gorge (Oct 14), the rock climbing competition at Sydney Uni (Oct 22), and the UNSW BMC Socialgaine - a rogaining event organised by our club, on the 25th and 26th of November.
We had so much fun last session, we doing it again! The Boree Log will again be held at Bungonia, south of Sydney near Goulbourn. There'll be climbing and caving (and hot showers afterwards!) and canyoning, not to mention night bushwalks, swims in the gorge, a campfire and a starry night. Get involved - contact Daniel Marlay or Scott Morrison. The second annual Boree Log will be held on the 27th - 29th of October, which is the end of Week 11.
There are a number of times during the week when rock climbers from the club get together and...well...climb rock. So here they are listed for your convenience.
Marc and Andrew's Monday Magical Mystery Tour: We'll be leaving uni at around midday most weeks this session to spend our monday afternoons climbing different areas around Sydney. We're hoping to go to different places each week, to learn about all the different crags in the vicinity. Contact: Marc Chee or Andrew Collins.
Queen's Park Bouldering: Ben Cirulis will be at Queen's Park doing some bouldering usually between 4 and 5pm on Tuesdays, which is a great way to pass the time before club meetings or just for practice at other times. Contact: Ben Cirulis
The Ledge: Every Friday night from 5 to 10pm, we have subsidised climbing at The Ledge, which is in the Sydney Uni Women's Sports Association Building. Entry is free for club members, and it's also a great way to meet other climbers from the club. Contact: Ben Cirulis or Marc Chee
Bouldering/Climbing at Palm Beach/Barrenjoey: Most Saturday afternoons, Marc Chee will be at the boulders on Palm Beach (usually from 12pm onwards) doing a little bouldering. If anyone else comes along, there's a chance getting of some good climbing done at Barrenjoey, and also, as the weather gets better, it'll be a great day to spend on the beach. Contact: Marc Chee
Full Day Climbing: Check the Trips List regularly for postings of day trips to exotic destinations like the Blue Mountains or the South Coast, but if you don't find anything, consider running a trip yourself.
The Sydney Uni Intervarsity Comp which will be on Sunday 22nd October at The Ledge gym (our regular Friday night climbing hangout) and absolutely everyone who can, or wants to learn how to climb should enter, because the club will pay your entry fee, you'll get a free sausage, and you might just be a natural hardass and win the beginners division!
Marc or Ben will need the names and student numbers of EVERYONE who wants to enter the comp by next Wednesday. This is because we need to register everyone we're sending along before the actual event. If you want to know anything else, there's a website up about it at http://www.physics.usyd.edu.au/~ande/climbing/comp2000 or contact a climbing officer.
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Climbing at Beecroft Peninsula (Point Perpendicular)Point Perpendicular is a climbing area of national significance, of superb surroundings and unique atmosphere. There are few sea cliffs around Sydney that has such good quality rock, and nothing beats pumping out on a route with the raging sea below. It's committing to abseil over the edge, and a set of prusiks can be necessary and very reassuring. The first time I went there was a trip during the easter holidays this year. On our first day climbing, the wind was so strong it was like a cushion - you could lean out from the cliff and gravity had no pull. But you can always find a sheltered climb, and we had a dose of sunshine the next day. Beecroft Peninsula is about 30km east of Nowra. The closest town is Currarong, and there are signs to the Point Perpendicular Lighthose and the camping area, Honeymoon bay. Unfortunately, the camping area is only open on weekends, and can get quite crowded, especially in the holidays, but there are caravan parks at Currarong. There is also a bombing range on the point, and the road is closed when it's in use. There is a guide book for the area by Mike Peck and John Churchill, and now is the best weather for climbing. So get down there, launch into the unknown, get committed, experience it for yourself. PhotosTop:Andrea and Yves enjoying the view before abseiling down to climb Grey Mist (17***). Bottom: Andrea Following Scott and Ben up the first pitch of Dreams and Visions (15***). Photos Ben Cirulis |
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And a quick gourmet camping tip, from Scott.
Take a punnet of strawberries or two, some lemons, and some cream. I prefer small sweet strawberries for this, and double cream (the thicker the better!). Remove the leaves of the strawberries, and cut into 2 or 3 pieces if they're big ones. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the strawberries, and then simmer gently over your camp stove until the strawberries become soft. (not too long - not mushy!). Take the strawberries straight off the heat, wack in a huge dollop of cream, and feed your hungry bushwalkers! I'm sure various modifications would work well - I'm keen to try adding some blueberries as well.
I'm hoping to make this a regular article in BMC Newsletters where I get to rant on and on and on about climbing. We're thinking that there should be a little addition to the application form for membership that says something like: "Do you want to receive newsletters with content from Marc Chee?" There should probably be a little MA15+ to go along with it, but well, I'll assume that uni students are generally over 15 . . . Anyway, welcome to Marc's Climbing Corner, part 1.
A friend of mine, Lindsay, suggested Upper Shipley as a destination for this weekend's climbing. The lowest grade that's likely to be available for me is about 19. On lead, I'm comfortable around 18, so this gets me thinking that maybe I'm not going to be so comfortable this trip.
In fact, nearly all the time I'm climbing with Lindsay I'm being forced to push grades just to keep up with his quest to tick a 22 . . . and to tell you the truth, it sucks arse. I didn't start climbing because I enjoyed hanging on a rope, checking out moves I can't do, nor leading things I would surely fall from.
Lindsay's a sport climber, you see. He spends the majority of his time climbing indoors and thinks that carrot bolts are halfway between sport and trad climbing. He never uses the words good and slab in the same sentence and would not be seen on a crack climb for any money. All climbers know a Lindsay, because there are lots of them around, and most climbers tend to hold them just a little in disdain.
There are reasons for this
Climbing is not about getting higher and higher grades and winning competitions and looking like a beefcake. It is not about man-made routes on plastic holds with a roof over your head. Climbing's about getting to the top of the climb and turning around to see a whole valley of green stretching out behind you. Climbing's about sitting at the bottom and not answering to your name because at that moment, a little section of rock is occupying all of your attention. Climbing is about forgetting who you are, your entire life and everything you need to know or whatever; losing it all and knowing nothing but where to put your hand, how to shift your weight to gain a precious few inches or a precious few seconds . . .
Rock Worship.
And that's got nothing to do with collecting ACDC records and going to concerts in stadiums.
I guess to those who've never experienced it, it sounds kind of stupid, weird and obsessed. Hell, maybe it is, but the times when I've been stupid, weird and obsessed have been the very best times of my life.
People who climb with me often have heard me talk about "Climbing Zen" and usually laugh when it comes up, but I don't get annoyed because most of them understand exactly what it's all about and those that don't will hopefully learn in time.
It's about focus, and lack of focus.
It's about tension alongside relaxation.
It's about remembering to breathe.
It's about not fighting gravity and not hating the rock and just being there.
Climbing is not a sport. It's not about beating things or people and it's not about higher, stronger, faster and all that bullshit. The reason I climb, and I have to speak for myself here because everyone else has their own reasons, is for the moment when your past and future disappears and your entire life narrows down to however long it takes to make the next move, and once you've done it, knowing that for that moment, even if never again, it was truly you and the rock and nothing else.
But even so, it's so easy to fall into the competition for who can climb the hardest grades, who can do the most chinups and who can outdo other people with talk of fantastic stunts and incredibly stupid risk taking.
With my ego, I often find it hard to avoid these conversations. I spent a few days at least in the Grampians making myself out to be some kind of hard man, until I finally ran out of steam, started climbing like crap and generally had to admit that I'm not a hard man and I'm not sure if I actually want to be.
What tends to bring things happily back into perspective for me is a few hours out bouldering on my own. You can climb what you like when you like . . . sit around and not do anything for anyone for a while. I guess it's my form of meditation and without it, I'd probably have issues of a far worse kind than being obsessed with climbing rock.
And that's what it is. Climbing is something that grabs you and takes over your spare days and your weekends. The guidebook becomes the bible and the crag the church. Okay, yes it's an
